Learn about some wonderful ornamental vegetables for your annual border with Horticulturist Josh Coceano.

Join us for #BranchOut, a digital learning series from the Scott Arboretum. Improve your gardening skills with how-to tutorials, learn more with in-depth plant discussions, and explore with great kid and family nature activities.

The post #BranchOut: Annual Border of Ornamental Vegetables appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Learn about the fascinating stories and symbolic sculpted flowers of the Dean Bond Rose Garden gates.

Join us for #BranchOut, a digital learning series from the Scott Arboretum. Improve your gardening skills with how-to tutorials, learn more with in-depth plant discussions, and explore with great kid and family nature activities. Check-in every Wednesday to see what we are discovering this week!

The post #BranchOut: Rose Garden Gates appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Looking for planting inspiration for your rain garden this spring? Check out our latest take on rain gardens by PPR Apartments!

The Palmer Residence Hall rain garden has wonderful fall color. photo credit: R. Robert

Rain gardens are traditionally small depressions, typically on a natural slope, containing perennials designed to temporarily hold and soak in rainwater runoff. As a result of the PPR Apartment construction, a rain garden was installed in the front circle drive of Palmer and Pittenger Hall to handle their rainwater runoff. This rain garden was placed in a prominent location inspiring some different plant choices.

Unlike our other large rain garden, the BioStream, where water flows and infiltrates through the garden stream path, the Palmer Residence Hall rain garden retains and absorbs rain water in a large depression. To date, we have observed water standing for short periods of time. The rainwater is effectively being absorbed by the plantings and into the ground water.

Pops of red from the winterberry will add interest through the winter season. photo credit: R. Robert

Communities are trying to mitigate rainwater runoff because water runs off impermeable surfaces, such as roofs or driveways, collecting pollutants such as particles of dirt, fertilizer, chemicals, oil, garbage, and bacteria along the way. Rain gardens collect rainwater runoff and filter the water with vegetation before the water percolates into the soil.

There are many ways to plant a rain garden. Landscape architect Bryan Hanes identified a unique group of plants to create a multi-seasonal, screening planting in front of Palmer Residence Hall.

Amelanchier x grandiflora ‘Autumn Brilliance’ produces showy white flowers in April. photo credit: R. Robert

Planted along the end of the garden are several Amelanchier x grandiflora ‘Autumn Brilliance’, apple serviceberries, creating a screening effect from the residence hall and Chester Road. This wonderful native, multi-stemmed, understory tree can handle full sun to part shade. Producing showy white flowers in April and developing to blue drupe fruits that are favorites of our feathered friends. In addition to the benefit for our wildlife, Autumn Brilliance has brilliant red to orange-red color, completing a fabulous array of multi-season interest.

Our native Ilex verticillata ‘Red Sprite’ has wonderful reaching branches loaded with red berries courtesy of the pollination from Ilex verticillata ‘Jim Dandy’. photo credit: R. Robert

Ilex verticillata ‘Jim Dandy’, winterberry; Ilex verticillata ‘Red Sprite’, winterberry; and Callicarpa americana , American beautyberry, have been added for winter interest. Our native Ilex verticillata ‘Red Sprite’ has wonderful reaching branches loaded with red berries courtesy of the pollination from Ilex verticillata ‘Jim Dandy’. From fall into winter the American beautyberry has delightful arching branches of purple berries.

Salix purpurea ‘Canyon Blue’ has steely blue-gray foliage and purple stems. photo credit: R. Robert

With its moist low ground, this garden has two purpleosier willows, Salix purpurea ‘Canyon Blue’ and Salix purpurea ‘Nana’. Both are dwarf cultivars; ‘Canyon Blue’ has steely blue-gray foliage and purple stems. Both willows produce interesting white-flowered catkins in the spring, while ‘Nana’ grows purplish young shoots that mature to grayish-brown foliage.

While not traditionally found in a rain garden, Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Seward’, Summer Wine™ ninebark adds color to the green palette of summer with its purple foliage. photo credit: R. Robert

A traditional rain garden shrub, the fragrant Cephalanthus occidentalis ‘SMCOSS’, Sugar Shack® buttonbush can be found in the planting. While not traditionally found in a rain garden, Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Seward’, Summer Wine™ ninebark adds color to the green palette of summer with its purple foliage. Arching branches of white flowers in the late spring and exfoliating bark in the winter, add great interest to the garden.

Also unique to rain gardens, Monarda didyma ‘Raspberry Wine.’bee balm, can be found in this planting. photo credit: R. Robert

Also unique to rain gardens, two speices of bee balm can be found in this planting, Monarda bradburiana, eastern bee balm and Monarda didyma ‘Raspberry Wine.’ A member of the mint family and loved by pollinators, monarda offers summer long bloom.

Tough disease resistant plants, Carex molesta, troublesome sedge,  were added to the garden.

Tough disease resistant plants, Carex molesta, troublesome sedge, and Carex pensylvania, Pennsylvania sedge were added to the garden. Troublesome sedge can be found toward the interior of the planting as it loves wetlands, while Pennsylvania sedge enjoys well-drained soil and can be found on the edge of the garden.

Finally, adding lovely texture to the garden in winter is Panicum virgatum ‘RR1’, Ruby Ribbons® switchgrass. Ruby Ribbons ® develops showy burgundy-red foliage which only intensifies through the fall. photo credit: R. Robert

Finally, adding lovely texture to the garden in winter is Panicum virgatum ‘RR1’, Ruby Ribbons® switchgrass. Ruby Ribbons ® develops showy burgundy-red foliage which only intensifies through the fall. This North American native prairie grass develops red flower panicles often described as clouds blowing in the wind in mid-summer. These panicles persist into winter adding movement to the garden in the winter winds.

Fall color of the Palmer Residence Hall rain garden. photo credit: R. Robert

Take a walk by Chester Road throughout the growing season to see our latest take on rain gardens evolve. I hope this plant list will inspire your next garden creation.

The post Leveling Up your Rain Garden appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

This summer, we discussed the techniques and benefits of gravel gardening. The Scott Arboretum’s experimentation with gravel gardening began with the planting of the Swarthmore Roundabout two years ago. In that short period of time, the garden has matured into a show-stopper that slows traffic down in the circle.

Our first planting in the center of the circle consisted of three Emerald Sentinel TM eastern redcedar, Juniperus virginiana ‘Corcorcor’ and three Espresso TM Kentucky coffeetrees, Gymnocladus dioicus ‘Espresso-JFS’. photo credit: R. Robert

One of PennDot’s requirements for the establishment of this roundabout was to plant evergreen and deciduous trees in the circle. Research has proven that trees in the circle are very effective at slowing people down through the roundabout and reducing accidents. Thus, our first planting in the center of the circle consisted of three Emerald Sentinel ^TM eastern redcedar, Juniperus virginiana ‘Corcorcor’ and three Espresso ^TM Kentucky coffeetrees, Gymnocladus dioicus ‘Espresso-JFS’.

Gravel gardens can be found throughout campus. photo credit: R. Robert

After filling this requirement, we had time to consider our options for underplantings. Using techniques learned from Cassian Schmidt, a German garden designer and professor, we developed a matrix to plant a combination of tough perennials. (See previous posts on this technique.)

Before the planting could begin, gravel was incorporated into the topsoil in the bed. Because the concept behind this technique is sustainability, we sourced our clean granite gravel locally. The key here was to use the local material, as it is more sustainable and allows our plants to adapt to local conditions.

Gardeners planting the roundabout in the spring.  photo credit: J. Jabco

After removing the top 6 inches of soil, 4 inches of gravel was tilled into the soil and topped with 3 inches of gravel. As noted in earlier posts, this creates a harsh environment for weeds to grow, while nurturing the planted material. Once the gravel was in placed, planting could begin.

Jeff Jabco’s planting matrix worksheets can be found hanging on the backside of his office door. photo credit: R. Robert

With a planting matrix, we planted 5% structural plants (Panicum, Baptisia, Amsonia, Schizachyrium), 35% companion plants (Aster, Pycnanthemum, Salvia, Liatris), 50% ground layer plants (Geranium, Ruellia, Eragrostis), and 10% filler plants (Coreopsis, Dalea, Allium). All were planted in late spring. (See complete list.)

Allium blooms are a show stopper in late spring. photo credit: R. Robert

After two years, we have learned some lessons and hope to continue to improve. Some Coreopsis and Geranium were lost, as they were planted in a small liner size. Thus, we’ve learned to ideally use plants in the 21 size (21 plugs per flat).

We also lost a juniper because a vehicle drove through the circle overnight. photo credit: R. Robert

We also lost a juniper because a vehicle drove through the circle overnight. While we can replace the tree, the perennials are easier to replace as drive error will occur around the circle at times.

We will be adding Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ for the deep purple color. photo credit: R. Robert

Finally, we will be tweaking the plant selections in the circle as the plants evolve. For example, we will be adding Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ for the deep purple color. The Salvia x sylvestris ‘Blauhügel’ currently in the circle is a light purple and the Caradonna will give a nice contrast.

We will also be adding Aslepias tuberosa, butterfly weed, to the planting. photo credit: R. Robert

We will also be adding Aslepias tuberosa, butterfly weed, to the planting. This would expand the season of color in the garden and provide habitat for butterflies and caterpillars.

The planting matrix makes for purple display in late summer/early fall. photo credit: R. Robert

Adjustments are good practice to improve and maintain a garden. Consider your latest planting and evaluate its successes and failures throughout the seasons. Explore adding more color and varying the color to increase your impact.

The post Swarthmore Roundabout: Gravel Gardening appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

As we move into the cold weather, you can dress-up your containers for the winter. Because of the cold temperatures, you can actually use your containers like outdoor arrangements with fresh greens and incorporate many elements of whimsy. (See notes about the proper containers for winter.)

These festive containers light up at the rear entrance to the Wister Center. photo credit: R. Robert

Like summer container design, you are looking for elements to serve as your thriller, filler, and spiller. The thriller element is typically the tall, eye-catching feature of the container, while the filler is exactly as it sounds. It fills the container, typically with green color. The spiller is the material placed at the edge of the container spilling over the edge.

To design the winter container this year, Horticulturist Josh Coceano, used evergreen and dry-cut stem material rather than potted plants. photo credit: R. Robert

To design the winter container this year, Horticulturist Josh Coceano, used evergreen and dry-cut stem material rather than potted plants. This technique will last through the winter due to the cold temperatures outside which will prevent the cut material from drying out.

The containers in the Terry Shane Teaching Garden use Corylus colurna, Turkish hazel, as their thriller elements, with tall reaching branches accented by dry teasel, Dispacus sp. photo credit: R. Robert

The containers in the Terry Shane Teaching Garden use Corylus colurna, Turkish hazel, as their thriller elements, with tall reaching branches accented by dry teasel, Dispacus sp. The fillers of this statement container are cut stems of Fargesia sp., bamboo. These leaves hold onto the color green throughout the winter and add a pop of color in the middle of the arrangement. The spiller element is a combination dried flower heads from Hydrangea quercifolia , oakleaf hydrangea and Hydrangea sp., hydrangea. These dramatic containers have great texture and subtle use of color.

In the Scott Entrance Garden containers, the thriller element is yellowtwig dogwood, Cornus sericea ‘Bud’s Yellow’, surrounded by dried seed heads of Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’. photo credit: R. Robert

In the Scott Entrance Garden containers, the thriller element is yellow twig dogwood, Cornus sericea ‘Bud’s Yellow’, surrounded by dried seed heads of Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’. The filler is the unusual combination of bark from Pinus nigra, Austrian pine and variegated holly osmanthus, Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’.

The light tones of bark and the variegation of the holly osmanthus play well with the blue foliage of Colorado blue spruce, Picea pungens Glauca Group, found in the spiller. These blue needles contrast with the dried Japanese cedar, Cryptomeria japonica, branches and cones mingled along the rim of the container completing the spiller element. While smaller in scale than the Terry Shane Teaching Garden containers, the combination is a show-stopper.

The containers at the rear entrance to the Wister Center use a combination of organic and nonorganic material to create the height of the arrangement. photo credit: R. Robert

The containers at the rear entrance to the Wister Center use a combination of organic and nonorganic material to create the height of the arrangement. The tall structure is created by a black garden tuteur, while the thrill comes from the creation hanging from the center of the tuteur. Inspired by hanging mistletoe decoration often sung about in your favorite holiday tune, Josh used material from the Arboretum to create his own take on the tradition.

Josh tied white pine, Pinus strobus; teasel, Dispacus sp.; Leyland cypress, xCupressus x leylandii, and glitter touched spruce cones together with decorative string to create this delightful decoration. photo credit: R. Robert

Josh tied white pine, Pinus strobus; teasel, Dispacus sp.; Leyland cypress, xCupressus x leylandii, and glitter touched spruce cones together with decorative string to create this delightful decoration. Suspended from the tuteur, it creates interesting movement in the wind.

For the filler, the container makes use of pine cones and Japanese cedar, Cryptomeria japonica, branches. photo credit: R. Robert

For the filler, the container makes use of pine cones and Japanese cedar, Cryptomeria japonica, branches. Cryptomeria branches continue into the spiller mixed with white pine, Pinus strobus, branches and moments of dried flower heads of teasel. The finishing touch of whimsy in this combination is twinkle lights.

Cryptomeria branches continue into the spiller mixed with white pine, Pinus strobus, branches and moments of dried flower heads of teasel. The finishing touch of whimsy in this combination is twinkle lights. photo credit: R. Robert

As you can see from just these lovely examples, the options are limitless. While creating, keep the principles in mind, add a thriller, filler, and spillers with various textures and colors. I hope this inspires you to create some festive containers.

The post Festive Winter Containers appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

In our first discussion of gravel gardens, we discussed a small planting around the Entrance Rock. This planting simply consists of tough plants in gravel, planted deep enough to reach the soil underneath. The inspiration came from the designer, Cassien Schmidt, a German garden designer who has developed naturalistic methods of planting in gravel. Schmidt came to the Scott Arboretum to hold a workshop and also consulted on the traffic circle planting on Chester road. Cassien has developed his way of planting as an easy and efficient formula mostly for municipal plantings and larger, low-maintenance plantings, but it can also be used for the home gardener.

In the last few weeks we have installed a gravel garden around the bus stop in front of 101 Chester Ave., on Fieldhouse Lane, and replanted a gravel garden in front of the PNC bank (a replanting due to construction). photo credit: S. Quinn

After seeing so much success with the traffic circle in just under 2 years after initial planting, the College and Arboretum decided to plant more areas using gravel culture. In the last few weeks we have installed a gravel garden around the bus stop in front of 101 Chester Ave., on Fieldhouse Lane, and replanted a gravel garden in front of the PNC bank (a replanting due to construction). We used Cassien’s formula to create all of these gardens.

Plants are planted within the grid. photo credit: S. Quinn

First we laid out a grid. Within the grid there is a list of plants and within that list there is a percentage of each type of plant. Different types of plants contribute different benefits to a group planting and act as a community.

Susan McGinley helping to plant the Chester 101 planting. photo credit: R. Rboert

In this planting there are 5% structural plants, 35% companion plants, 50% ground layer plants, and 10% filler plants. The plants chosen are mostly native and are selected for their ability to live through drought and full exposure to the sun. All of these are perennials but it is possible to incorporate woodies, as we did in the traffic circle.

In this planting there are 5% structural plants, 35% companion plants, 50% ground layer plants, and 10% filler plants. photo credit: R. Robert

Within each group of plants there are between 4 and 6 different plants. For example: within the ground layer grouping there are four selections; Geranium cantabrigense ‘Karmina’, Ruellia humilis, Eragrostis spectabilis, and Asclepias tuberosa. In one block, if you need four ground layer plants, you can use one of each.

The plants for each block were grouped in crates off-site, then moved to the site and placed in each block of the grid. photo credit: R. Robert

The plants for each block were grouped in crates off-site, then moved to the site and placed in each block of the grid. This made it easy for anyone to take plants out and plant randomly, and random is key. It’s hard sometimes to not think about where you’re placing plants, especially if you’re used to grouping or making swaths. In this planting design, the plants are all meant to grow together and through each other like they would in nature. It’s important to plant densely to cover the ground and inhibit weeds. Although the idea is to plant randomly, it is helpful along paths to plant things that won’t get big and flop over. If you have a narrow strip or an area that someone in a car needs to see over, it is best to leave the taller, structural plants out.

It is important that the roots reach the soil level because they cannot grow out into the gravel. photo credit: S. Quinn

Planting in gravel culture is different. It is important that the roots reach the soil level because they cannot grow out into the gravel. The nutrients or water that most plants need are not present in gravel. In our gravel beds there is 6 inches of gravel above 4 inches of gravel-soil mix. To get to the soil, it takes a bit of digging and it’s important not to get soil in the gravel because that’s where the weed seeds can grow.

After filling in with the gravel that has been dug out, it seems that you have just dug its grave because it is so deep, but this has been proven to work. photo credit: S. Quinn

I’ve found that a short-handled spade is best for digging. We dug deep, wide holes down to the soil, pulling the gravel layer out wide. It sounds harsh, but each plant gets the soil removed from its roots before it’s planted. Having a bucket close by for soil removal is important to keep soil from falling into the gravel. Removing the soil encourages the plant to go farther down with root growth and discourages weed seeds from growing out of the nursery mix that the plant was in.

Gravels covers the base of the plant. photo credit: S. Quinn

After filling in with the gravel that has been dug out, it seems that you have just dug its grave because it is so deep, but this has been proven to work. We have had some casualties, but the majority of plants have thrived in this situation.

It sounds harsh, but each plant gets the soil removed from its roots before it’s planted. photo credit: R. Robert

Low maintenance is a major benefit of gravel culture. With the new plantings, we will water them as needed. The schedule is more frequently immediately after planting, and after a year, plants should be established enough not to need any watering except during an extreme drought. No fertilizers are added. Ideally, the planting should only need a few visits a year for possible weeding, and a cut back in the fall or winter to prevent debris from breaking down into soil for weed seeds to grow in.

Give gravel gardening a try in your sunny spot.

The post Gravel Gardening: The Planting Formula to Success appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

If you’ve passed the Swarthmore College Entrance Rock in the last couple of months you may have noticed something different. Where there once was a patch of grass hugging the rock, now there is gravel and a few small plants. This may seem strange to some because we have learned to plant in the soil and top-dress with mulch to give plants nutrients and retain moisture. Why would we grow plants in gravel?

The goal with gravel culture planting is to create a more sustainable garden requiring less maintenance and less water. photo credit: S. Quinn

The goal with gravel culture planting is to create a more sustainable garden requiring less maintenance and less water. This way of planting is being promoted and practiced globally through the ecologically focused  “New Perennials” movement in landscape design.

Low growing sedums were chosen for the front of the rock in order not to obstruct the night lighting. photo credit: R. Robert

One of the leading actors in this movement is Cassian Schmidt, a progressive landscape designer and the director of Hermannshoff Garden in Germany. In the fall of 2016 he taught a workshop at Scott Arboretum to share methods he developed for naturalistic gravel plantings. Examples of his methods are in Swarthmore Roundabout, and you can read more about the planting in the Swarthmorean. This planting method is so successful here that we are planting more gravel areas.

This technique only partially plants the roots in the gravel. The top 6 inches are pure gravel. Below the gravel is a 4-inch layer of mixed gravel and soil. The key to the planting is making sure the roots are in the soil. For small plants, it’s okay if some of the roots are in the soil/gravel layer.

The deepest digging was for Stachys byzantina ‘Helene von Stein’ (lamb’s-ears) and several other perennials. photo credit: R. Robert

The goal of this kind of gardening is to encourage the plant to send roots into the soil layer. There are many benefits including less watering by the gardeners. The soil retains moisture better when it is below the surface and protected. The gravel allows water to trickle down and stay for longer as opposed to a top layer of mulch where water evaporates quickly.

Inevitably some bold seeds make it but far fewer than those found in a bed of soil and mulch. Here is a weed sprouting underneath the sedum. photo credit: R. Robert

With a thick layer of gravel, wandering weed seeds are less likely to find a home to germinate, so gardeners will have less weeding to do. Inevitably some bold seeds make it but far fewer than those found in a bed of soil and mulch. So far in the Swarthmore Entrance Rock bed, the crabgrass has only come up along the edges where there was more soil left behind, and a few bits of pioneering nutsedge have come up in the middle.

The new Swarthmore Entrance Rock planting is mostly sedums which only needed to be tucked into the first layer of gravel. photo credit: S. Quinn

The new Swarthmore Entrance Rock planting is mostly sedums which only needed to be tucked into the first layer of gravel. The deepest digging was for Molinia caerulea ssp.  arundinacea ‘Skyracer’ (purple moor grass),  Stachys byzantina ‘Helene von Stein’ (lamb’s-ears), and Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta (calamint).

Thriving in the shade is Carex plantaginea (plantain-leaved sedge). photo credit: R. Robert

Having already chosen plants for tough conditions, the plants and design changed little when the Collections Committee decided to convert the bed to a gravel garden. Thriving in the shade are Helleborus x ballardiae ‘Coseh 800’ (HGC Snow Dance hellebore) and the Carex plantaginea (plantain-leaved sedge), while the rest have bright sun in an island bed surrounded by asphalt.

A taller sedum, S. SUNSPARKLER® ‘Blue Pearl’ (stonecrop), is for variation in height and color. photo credit: R. Robert

Low growing sedums were chosen for the front of the rock in order not to obstruct the night lighting. The mix of sedums includes Sedum hybridum ‘Immergrünchen’ (little evergreen sedum), S. album (white stonecrop), S.  kamtschaticum var. floriferum ‘Weihenstephaner Gold’ (orange stonecrop), and S. spurium ‘Ruby Mantle’ (creeping stonecrop).  A taller sedum, S. SUNSPARKLER® ‘Blue Pearl’ (stonecrop), is for variation in height and color. Plants like Molinia caerulea ssp.  arundinacea ‘Skyracer’, Helleborus x ballardiae ‘Coseh 800’, Stachys byzantina ‘Helene von Stein’, and Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta were chosen to compliment the surrounding beds.

The only issues so far are that the Stachys had its lower leaves burned by the reflection of the sun off the gravel. photo credit: S. Quinn

After regular watering in the first few weeks following installation, the plantings are doing well despite the persistent heat. The only issues so far are that the Stachys had its lower leaves burned by the reflection of the sun off the gravel. The leaves were quickly removed to keep them from decomposing on the gravel.

Our next venture in gravel gardening will be in the parking lot on Field House Lane. Follow us as we explore the techniques and tips in our Gravel Gardens series.

The post Gravel Gardening: Swarthmore Entrance Rock appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Some principles of good garden design emphasize the use of colored foliage to create pops of color in the garden. Colored foliage adds interest throughout the seasons in addition to explosions of color created by blooms.

Under the mature Quercus alba, white oak, shade-loving perennials are planted in stripes of blue, yellow, purple, and green. photo credit: R. Robert

Designer Sara Schuh of SALT design took this concept to a new level with her design for Whittier Hall. Instead of pops of color, she created bands of color. Under the mature Quercus alba,  white oak, and Diosypros virginiana, persimmon, shade-loving perennials are planted in stripes of blue, yellow, purple, and green.

Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’ creates this striking band of yellow. photo credit: R. Robert

The yellow band consists of Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’, Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’, and Hosta ‘Fire Island’. The purple band features Helleborus [HGC Cinnamon Snow], Helleborus ‘Black Diamond’, and  Helleborus x hybridus ‘Yellow Lady’. The green band relies on  Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’ and Heuchera  Americana (Dale’s Strain). Hosta ‘Big Daddy’ and Hosta sieboldiana var. elegans represent the blue band. Refer to the chart above to see the complete layout.

Instead of pops of color, bands of color were created with shade perennials. Chart by M. Tipping

Viewed from the second floor of Whitter Hall, these stripes create great interest in the garden.  At garden level, you can see varying textures and patterns across the planting.

Hosta ‘Fire Island’ makes up this yellow color band. photo credit: R. Robert

Consider planting “stripes” in your garden. Many of these shade-loving varieties will be available at the Scott Arboretum Selections: Fall Sale on September 15 to 17. We invite you come by and pick out your color bands.

The post Bands of Color appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Today’s rose garden is interplanted with a variety of plants to encourage the growth of beneficial insect populations to help control unwanted pests. photo credit: R. Robert

Gone are the days of rose gardens with just roses, requiring the use of synthetic pesticides every two weeks, killing insects with no regard to beneficials, and creating harmful run-off into the environment. Today’s rose garden is interplanted with a variety of plants to encourage the growth of beneficial insect populations to help control unwanted pests.

To attract pollinators and beneficial insects to the garden, our gardeners planted several flowering perennials to help sustain their life cycles. photo credit: R. Robert

To attract pollinators and beneficial insects to the garden, our gardeners planted several flowering perennials to help sustain their life cycles. Various types of plants need to flower before and after the roses bloom to provide a constant food source for beneficial insects in all their life cycles, not just during the month of June when roses bloom.

For example, the adult syrphid flies feed on pollen and nectar, while during the larval stage they feed on aphids and other soft-bodied insects. Controlling the aphid population prevents them from sucking plant sap which creates a sticky substance called honeydew. Aphids extrude this honeydew onto leaf surfaces creating an ideal growing medium for black, sooty mold. Providing nectar sources for adult syrphid flies results in syrphid fly larvae eating aphids, preventing honeydew on leaves, therefore controlling black, sooty mold.

Saint Cecilla(R) Rose has been bred with so many petals that it is hard for pollinators to reach the pollen. photo credit: R. Robert

Most selections roses have been bred with so many petals that pollinators could not reach the pollen. Plants with open flowers have been chosen to encourage pollen collecting. The added benefit is that they look great in the garden.

Check some of our favorite garden plants for pollinators found the Dean Bond Rose Garden:

Saliva nemorasa ‘Caradonna’, an old world sage, blooms in April, May, and June and is a great source of nectar for honeybees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.photo credit: R. Robert

Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’, an old world sage, blooms in April, May, and June and is a great source of nectar for honeybees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It attracts orange-barred sulphur, monarch, cloudless sulphur, giant swallowfly, zebra longwing, gulf fritillary, and spicebush swallowtail butterflies to name a few. As a garden plant, S. ‘Caradonna’ has dark purple flower stems with blue-violet flowers. It is also a drought tolerant plant.

Digitalis x mertonensis, strawberry foxglove, has stunning deep rose-pink flowers grown on pendulous clusters on one-sided racemes. photo credit: R. Robert

Digitalis x mertonensis, strawberry foxglove, has stunning deep rose-pink flowers grown on pendulous clusters on one-sided racemes. This early summer bloomer attracts pollinators like hummingbirds and honey bees with its sweet nectar. Typically living 2 to 3 years, rosettes of leaves can be divided every two years to maintain vigor.

Even in late August, bees are swarming Agastache ‘Black Adder’. photo credit: R. Robert

Agastache ‘Blackadder’, giant hyssop, has extended bloom from June to September. This upright clump-forming cultivar has smoky red-violet flowers blooming on bottle-brush terminal spikes with fragrant foliage. This deer-resistant plant serves as a nectar source for hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by honeybees, bumblebees, digger bees (Melissodes spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees (Lasioglossum spp., etc.), and Masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), which seek nectar or pollen. Other occasional visitors are Syrphid flies, bee flies, and various butterflies, skippers, oligolectic bees, and moths.

Monarda didyma ‘Coral Reef’ has coral blooms that extend the rose garden flower season into July. photo credit: R. Robert

Monarda didyma ‘Coral Reef’ has coral blooms that extend the rose garden flower season into July. This mildew resistant cultivar has large, shaggy flowers and fragrant foliage. The sweet nectar attracts long-tongued bees, bee flies, butterflies, skippers, hummingbird moths, Miner bees, Epeoline Cuckoo bees, and large leaf-cutting bees, to name a few. Caterpillars of the Sphinx eremitus (Hermit Sphinx) and Argiopodes teratophora (Gray Marvel) feed on the foliage. Seedbugs (Ortholomus scolopax) can be found feeding on the seedheads.

Achillea millefolium ‘Pomegranate’ has striking pomegranate colored flowers that bloom in dense, flattened clusters from June to September. photo credit: R. Robert

Achillea millefolium ‘Pomegranate’ has striking pomegranate colored flowers that bloom in dense, flattened clusters from June to September. This rhizomatous, spreading, upright perennial does well in full sun. Achillea attracts bee flies, Syrphid flies (including drone flies), thick-headed flies, Tachinid flies, flesh flies, Anthomyiid flies, and others. Additionally many species of grasshoppers, aphids, seed bug, flower thrips, leaf beetles, and caterpillars of some moths feed on yarrow.

Experiment with interplanting roses with perennials and discover what pollinators one attracted to the garden as well as what pests are controlled. Many of these great plants are available at the Scott Arboretum Plant Sale on September 12 through 13, 2015.

The post Beyond Beauty: Why your Rose Garden needs more then Roses appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Brugmansia flowers always make a statement in a container. photo credit: D. Mattis

Flowers are natural attention-grabbers—it’s literally the role they were born to play to attract pollinators, so it’s not surprising gardeners use flowering plants for an instant wow-factor. Yet, as charming as they are, flowers are also fleeting and if the weight of your design relies heavily on these transitory blooms, you’ll be left with a lackluster show once they’re spent.

To bolster the longevity and interest of your design, choose half your plants for either exciting foliage—think elephant ears (Colocasia sp.). photo credit: D. Mattis

To bolster the longevity and interest of your design, choose half your plants for either exciting foliage—think bromeliads or elephant ears (Colocasia sp.) —or quirky forms—like corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus ‘Spiralis’). That way flowering plants can run the other half of the show.

Sweet potato vine’s (Ipomoea batatas) vigorous growth and intense color make it a favorite among spillers. photo credit: R. Robert

As you select your plants, visualize their roles as potential spillers, fillers, or thrillers. Spillers provide a base that gracefully cascades from the container, giving the composition a more vertical form. Sweet potato vine’s (Ipomoea batatas) vigorous growth and intense color make it a favorite among spillers.

Fillers weave throughout, for a happy medium that unifies the composition. photo credit: R. Robert

Fillers weave throughout, for a happy medium that unifies the composition. Coleus, Swedish ivy, (Plectranthus sp.) and begonias are excellent fillers with varieties of color and texture.

Thrillers, of course, are the stars of the show. Check out the color on this thriller. photo credit: D. Mattis

Thrillers, of course, are the stars of the show. Often dominating containers with intense form, color or size, thrillers demand attention and are typically the crown jewel of an eye-catching display. Cannas are often used as thrillers for their dramatic vertical form, saturated blooms and bold foliage. Bananas (Musa sp. and Ensete sp.) instantly add an exotic twist, and ornamental flax (Phormium sp.) offers a kaleidoscope of colored stripes to suit nearly any container design.

Explore a variety of plant combinations in unique containers. photo credit: R. Robert

Be Bold!

When it comes to container gardening with tropicals and annuals, don’t be afraid to experiment with a variety of plant combinations and design strategies. Like any art form, design guidelines can be tweaked, stretched or abandoned altogether to make way for something completely new and completely you! Your imagination is the only limit!

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This complete article originally appeared in County Lines April 2015 issue.

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