Guest Author: Marissa Lariviere ‘18

Have you ever stumbled across the strange ruins in the Crum Woods? At first glance, these crumbling walls just seem creepy. But don’t run away- this area actually has a long and fascinating history, involving magnificent mansions and dating all the way back to Pennsylvania’s founder, William Penn.

In 1927, Lytlecote was bought by Ward Hinkson and his wife Edith, and renamed Oak Knoll. The Hinksons would go on to construct an elaborate estate over the 32 acres, turning their home into an iconic site in the area. photo credit: Scott Arboretum Archives

Lytlecote

The estate was originally one of three parcels purchased from William Penn in 1681 by a Society of Friends member, Thomas Powell. Centuries later, in 1892, Mrs. James H. Little bought the estate and named it Lytlecote. She built an elite suburban fieldstone mansion on the former farmland, which was described by a contemporary as “one of the most attractive of the many handsome Delaware county estates… massive in its proportions and beautiful in its surroundings.”

A view of the Italian Water Garden from the house. These are the ruins you can find along the trail today. photo credit: Scott Arboretum Archives

Oak Knoll

 In 1927, Lytlecote was bought by Ward Hinkson and his wife Edith, and renamed Oak Knoll. The Hinksons would go on to construct an elaborate estate over the 32 acres, turning their home into an iconic site in the area. This included a swimming pool, a private arboretum, and an Italian Water Garden complete with a fountain. In their gardens, the Hinksons and their six gardeners cultivated boxwood hedges, roses, tree peonies, rhododendrons, and Exbury azaleas, among others. They also planted an abundance of trees, including Norway spruces, white pines, a double-flowering dogwood, golden-flowered fringe trees, a lace leaf maple, and flowering cherry trees. Five greenhouses stood near the house, where the Hinksons grew twelve varieties of orchids commercially. Around 100,000 of these orchid flowers were cut and sold each year.

Five greenhouses stood near the house, where the Hinksons grew twelve varieties of orchids commercially. Around 100,000 of these orchid flowers were cut and sold each year. photo credit: Scott Arboretum Archives

In 1964, the Hinksons sold much of their land to be turned into suburban homes. However, the real demise of Oak Knoll came with the construction of the Blue Route Highway (Interstate 476). The estate was demolished to clear the path for the new road. In preparation, all 73,000 of the Hinksons’ orchids were sold at auction and their greenhouses were dismantled.  By 1967, the Hinksons had moved to a new home in Upper Providence and construction of the Blue Route began. The highway would be completed in 1992.

The trillium that cover the banks of the Crum Woods in the spring are remnants of the Oak Knoll estate. photo credit: R. Robert

Crum Ruins

Today, little remains of the Hinkson’s elaborate estate. However, the ruins of Oak Knoll’s Italian Water Garden can still be found in the Crum Woods. They are now known as “the Crum Ruins,” “the sunken gardens,” or simply “the ruins.” The ruins consist of the stone walls and steps of the water garden, whose stonework is weathered but not seriously damaged. The college has filled in the small central pool with soil to avoid liability. These ruins are a popular destination for hikers, joggers, and bikers on the Leiper-Smedley trail. This paved path, which is over two miles long, runs from the Thomas Leiper House to Smedley Park. Visitors can still see many of the plants that were cultivated at Oak Knoll, including flowering cherries, yews, white pines, a sourwood, a cucumber magnolia, Japanese pachysandra, large-flowered, sessile, and yellow trilliums, and an abundant akebia vine. These ruins are an important part of local history in a beautiful natural setting. For the adventurous hiker, they’re definitely well worth a visit!

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This article is part of an ongoing column called the Crum Woods Chronicle. The Crum Woods Chronicle will be periodic updates and observations about subjects related to natural history, interesting species found in and around the Crum Woods, and exciting events you can get involved in. My hope is that some of these topics will interest you, strengthen your connection to the Crum Woods, and inspire you to explore your backyard a little more often.

Natural areas do not maintain their character and quality independently, especially when they are heavily used by people and embedded in urban environments. Educating yourself about aspects of the Crum Woods that interest you and understanding how your individual use of the Crum Woods impacts it (and how you can reduce that impact!) are important steps every one of us should take.

“In the end we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only what we are taught.” –Baba Dioum

The post Off the Beaten Path: History of the Crum Ruins appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

by Kate Crowley ‘ 16

Despite some unusually late snow this April, the skunk cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus) is beginning to make its dramatic appearance in the Crum Woods. It is one of the earliest native bloomers in the eastern United States.

In late winter, the spathe, a purplish pod, sticks out of the ground. Within the spathe is the spadix, a knob covered in yellow flowers, which bloom in early spring. These growth stages of the plant are subtle, but worth seeking out for their strange appearance.

Skunk cabbage amidst a carpet of lesser celandine. Photo by K. Crowley ‘16

In mid-spring, the skunk cabbage abandons its understated appearance and demands to be noticed with huge green leaves. The skunk cabbage grows best on the edge of wetlands, so low-lying areas of the Crum Woods become absolutely carpeted with them once the leaves appear. The effect is especially dramatic because native forests usually have very little other green this early in the season.

Skunk cabbage is such a noticeable feature of our woods there is actually an area of the Crum Woods labeled on official maps as Skunk Cabbage Hollow. photo credit: R. Robert

Skunk cabbage is such a noticeable feature of our woods there is actually an area of the Crum Woods labeled on official maps as Skunk Cabbage HollowSkunk Cabbage Hollow is located near Ware Pool and the Matchbox. Walk down the paved road behind the Matchbox, down the steep hill, and enter the Crum at the gap in the guardrails. Follow the trail briefly until its first major left branch that leads toward Strath Haven Apartments. The skunk cabbage should be very apparent on the creek’s edge at that point.

The spadix, within the spathe, is covered in small flowers. Photo by K. Crowley ‘16

Just the name skunk cabbage is enough to pique most people’s interest in this unique plant. It does in fact smell like rotting carrion or an unhappy skunk when disturbed, an honest warning to most mammals, who find it toxic.

Conservationists view it as a happy accident that the smell also dissuades many clueless wanderers from traipsing through fragile wetlands. Besides the obvious smell, skunk cabbage has a number of features that make it worth learning a bit about, if only to provide some great “did you know?” facts when wandering through the woods with friends.

The rhizome, or underground root of the skunk cabbage can allow it to live for many years, re-blooming each year in early spring. While its lifespan has not been rigorously studied, estimates range from several decades to several centuries. Contributing to its ability to out-live many other plants and thrive in extreme conditions is a system of contractile roots, which pull the rhizome deeper into the soil with each passing year.

Shunk cabbage is flush along the Crum Woods trails. photo credit: R. Robert

Skunk cabbage is also able to regulate its own temperature to some degree, which is usually an ability restricted to warm-blooded animals. This unusual heat production occurs in early spring, when the interior of the spathe is noticeably warmer than the outside air.

The warm purple, carrion smelling cocoon draws in insects that pollinate the flowers on the spadix. Then, in the summer when the plant has reached the end of its season, its leaves turn to slime and soak into the soil surrounding the spathe. The skunk cabbage is ready for another year of extreme endurance.

For additional information, visit:

http://northernwoodlands.org/outside_story/article/skunk-cabbage

http://ontariowildflowers.com/mondaygarden/article.php?id=158

This article is part of an ongoing column called the Crum Woods Chronicle. The Crum Woods Chronicle will be periodic updates and observations about subjects related to natural history, interesting species found in and around the Crum Woods, and exciting events you can get involved in. My hope is that some of these topics will interest you, strengthen your connection to the Crum Woods, and inspire you to explore your backyard a little more often.

Natural areas do not maintain their character and quality independently, especially when they are heavily used by people and embedded in urban environments. Educating yourself about aspects of the Crum Woods that interest you and understanding how your individual use of the Crum Woods impacts it (and how you can reduce that impact!) are important steps every one of us should take.

“In the end we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only what we are taught.” –Baba Dioum

The post Crum Woods Chronicle: Meet the Skunk Cabbage appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Natural areas do not maintain their character and quality independently, especially when they are heavily used by people and embedded in urban environments. Educating yourself about aspects of the Crum Woods that interest you and understanding how your individual use of the Crum Woods impacts it (and how you can reduce that impact!) are important steps every one of us should take.

“In the end we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only what we are taught.” –Baba Dioum

Catch a Falling Leaf
by: Kate Crowley ‘16

First Collection in the Scott Outdoor Amphitheater on the campus of Swarthmore College. photo credit: L. Kesterson

Three weeks ago the class of 2019 gathered in the amphitheater for First Collection. Less than nine months from now, the class of 2016 will sit together in the same place for our Commencement ceremony. The amphitheater is where we symbolically begin and end our time at Swarthmore. Situated at the border between the Crum Woods and campus, it is a place of peaceful transition. Our first introduction to campus and our last goodbye feel humane because of the solid rock beneath us and powerful trees above us. As a literal transition from campus, the Crum Woods seem so much more approachable when you begin by meandering through the amphitheater and picking up one of the many trails behind the stage.

The tall, statuesque trees dotting the amphitheater are tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera). photo credit: R. Maurer

The tall, statuesque trees dotting the amphitheater are tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera). Tulip trees are not closely related to the bulbous flower of the same name. Rather, they have leaves that look somewhat like two-dimensional tulip flowers and tulip-like flowers in the spring. The tulip trees in the amphitheater were conserved during the amphitheater’s construction because they are fast-growing (more than 24 inches a year!) and reach heights of up to 120 feet (36.5 m), providing an impressive canopy.

Tulip trees are often used as telephone poles due to their strong apical growth, which is a technical term that means the tree grows up, rather that out. photo credit: R. Robert

You might not have realized it, but if you’ve spent much time on the east coast you’ve probably encountered tulip trees in a number of other places! Tulip trees are often used as telephone poles due to their strong apical growth, which is a technical term that means the tree grows up, rather that out. If you take a minute to look out the window from where you’re reading this, the leaves being puppeted around by the wind are most likely from tulip trees. They’re great to chase and try to catch.

In a few weeks, tulip tree leaves are going to turn a vibrant yellow. photo credit: R. Robert

While tulip trees are native to the northeast, it is likely that they weren’t always so abundant. Much of the land in Pennsylvania and surrounding areas of the country was heavily farmed. Because tulip trees spread their seeds through wind dispersal, they had little difficulty continuing to reproduce and regenerate. However, other tree species that rely on animals to carry seeds would have been less successful in such a landscape. Birds and mammals may have had smaller populations in open and heavily managed areas, leading to reduced regeneration of trees that used that strategy. Now, in more urban environments, tulip trees may experience a similar advantage.

Tulip trees have leaves that look somewhat like two-dimensional tulip flowers and tulip-like flowers in the spring. photo credit: R. Robert

In a few weeks, tulip tree leaves are going to turn a vibrant yellow. There is no better place to appreciate autumn on our campus than in the amphitheater and on into the Crum Woods. I guarantee it will be a perfect place to take a photo and show your friends back home how #gorgeous your campus is.

There is no better place to appreciate autumn on our campus than in the amphitheater and on into the Crum Woods. photo credit: R. Robert

If you want to see a particularly impressive specimen, our very own Crum Woods is home to a Pennsylvania Champion Tree. It is the fourth biggest tulip tree in Pennsylvania, pulling in 373 “Pennsylvania Big Tree Points” (height (ft) + circumference breast height (in) + ¼ maximum crown spread). Find the trail that starts at the water tower behind the Science Center, and walk downhill. Just where the trail starts to veer left, look straight ahead into the woods. It’s rather treasured by the Scott Arboretum and other tree enthusiasts so the best thing you can do is stay on the trail and admire from afar. Happy leaf catching!

Kate Crowley, Swarthmore Class of 2016, is the 2015 – 2016 Crum Woods Chronicler. A native of Melbourne, FL and currently majoring in Biology and Educational Studies, Kate is interested in the way the public learns about science and how we can strengthen our connection to natural places. She has enjoyed running and walking through the Crum Woods over the years and hopes to share her appreciation with others.

The post Crum Woods Chronicle: Catch a Falling Leaf appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Guest Author: Susan Mintun

The genus Chionanthus (pronounced ki-o-nan-thus, with a long i) offers gardeners in this area two species of large shrubs to small trees that can make lovely additions to our gardens. It is most often called fringetree or old man’s beard. The common names, as well as the Latinized genus name, refer to the flowers.

Chionanthus virginicus is covered in delicate, tassel-like, fragant blooms in the spring. photo credit: S. Mintun

Chionanthus comes from Greek; chion, meaning snow, and anthos meaning flower. In spring, these plants can be covered with delicate, tassel-like, fragrant blooms.  There is some disagreement among taxonomists exactly which plants should be placed in the genus Chionanthus. Some authorities recognize about 100 species, while others place most of these plants, which are tropical and subtropical evergreens in the genus Linociera. But no matter; for our gardens, two temperate deciduous species, C. virginicus and C. retusus, are of greatest interest.

Chionanthus virginicus is one of our nicest native plants. photo credit: S. Mintun

Chionanthus virginicus is one of our nicest native plants, found naturally in the southeastern United States (hence the specific epithet virginicus), but it is certainly hardy to at least zone 4. In nature, it is generally found as an understory plant in moist, acidic, fertile soils, but it is quite adaptable, making it a good candidate as a specimen shrub or small tree.

This species flowers on the previous season’s wood just as the leaves are reaching full size, and the overall effect is a charming color combination of fresh, bright green and pure white. The individual flowers are fairly small, but are lightly fragrant and produced on panicles that nod gracefully, creating a lacy texture and emitting a gentle scent.

The common name, fringetree, is apt because the four petals on each flower are very narrow and only about an inch long. The plants are polygamous, meaning they have separate male and female flowers, though in this genus both sexes often occur on the same plant. The male flowers are somewhat showier than the females because their petals are longer, but the ornamental difference between the two is slight. For those of you who are botany-minded it is a fun exercise to locate male and female samples and compare them side by side .

Chionanthus retusus 'Serrulatus' has an impressive display of green drupes in August. photo credit: R. Maurer

In August, the female flowers develop green drupes that ripen to a beautiful dark, dusky blue relished by birds. The fruits are reportedly edible for humans, too, especially if pickled (Chionanthus is a member of the olive family, Oleaceae) though I have never tried them. Throughout the season the oppositely arranged, entire leaves remain clean and attractive, with little interference from diseases or insects. Fall color can be a nice yellow on some individuals, though generally muted yellow to brown is the norm.

Chionanthus retusus has nice fall color and the green drupes ripen into a lovely dark, dusty blue. photo credit: R. Maurer

Chionanthus retusus is native to China and thus sometimes called Chinese fringetree. The specific epithet refers to the leaf shape of this species, which is often (though not always) notched at the tip and usually more rounded than the leaves of C. virginicus. In many respects the two species are similar, but a major difference is that C. retusus blooms on new wood at the tips of the branches and before the foliage is fully developed.  In addition, the panicles are more upright, so the result is that the flowers are not partially obscured by the leaves as they are on C. virginicus. By the same token the lovely green to rose to bloomy blue-black fruits are also easier to admire (photo 4).  In years when the flowers are produced in large numbers, the rest of the tree will be all but hidden by masses of delicate, fragrant flowers. If the weather is not too harsh the flowers can last for as long as two weeks.  I recall being utterly astounded one spring when, rounding a bend in Central Park in New York City, I encountered a grove of Chinese fringetrees in full bloom; the sight was breathtaking . I need to return some day to see those trees in fruit. I’ll just have to get there before the birds. In winter the bark pattern is quite attractive – dark vertical stripes interspersed with silver-gray plates .

Cultural considerations: Placed in full sun the growth habit will be denser and flowering more abundant than if the plant receives partial shade. Both species exhibit a fair amount of variability in form, size, and leaf shape, especially depending on northern or southern provenance. Plants may develop into a rounded shrub or can be encouraged into a more tree-like form with careful pruning and age. They are slow-growing, and generally reach about 20’ tall.  If you have a difficult site, this may be a plant worth trying.

Chionanthus retusus has attractive dark vertical striped bark. photo credit: S. Mintun

In my experience, C. virginicus is not just cold hardy, but tough as nails in many respects. I have seen it grow and bloom in a hot parking lot island with its roots in nasty construction soil, and also soldier along in highly compacted soil. Though I certainly don’t recommend this type of unkind treatment, sometimes it just can’t be helped.  A small plant I received from Michael Dirr many years ago survived travel, a couple of transplants, and rubbing by male deer before finally finding a permanent home in my St. Louis garden. Despite tribulations it flowered at a young age and was about 10’ tall after 14 years. I have not tested C. retusus in such extreme conditions, but those I have grown have been very reliable. Nursery growers recommend planting in spring.

If you enjoy horticultural challenges you might want to try propagating some fringetrees. I have had fairly good luck starting C. virginicus from seed, though they take about 18 months to germinate and exhibit double dormancy. I have attempted both species from cuttings without much success. Experts suspect that using juvenile tissue is key, and since the plants flower at a young age having a source of juvenile cuttings can be an issue. Fringetrees can also be propagated by layering, though I have not tried it. There are a number of online articles from knowledgeable growers that detail all three methods.

I recall being utterly astounded one spring when, rounding a bend in Central Park in New York City, I encountered a grove of Chinese fringetrees in full bloom; the sight was breathtaking. photo credit: S. Mintun

Also noted

Chionanthus pygmaeus, dwarf fringetree, is an intriguing species native to Florida. It is similar to C. virginicus, though smaller in stature, reaching only about 4’ tall, and is therefore a good choice for small gardens. I have never grown it, but I would certainly like to. It is adapted to harsh, dry environments and exhibits the same ornamental qualities as other fringetrees, so like C. virginicu,  could be a good choice for tough spots. Sadly, the species was placed on the endangered list in 1987 due to loss of habitat from commercial, residential, and citrus grove development in Florida. Scott Arboretum is fortunate to have three dwarf fringetrees in its collection.

Susan Mintun is a transplanted teacher and horticulturist who moved to Philadelphia in 2011. She served on the faculty and curated the plant collections of the Horticulture Department at Meramec College in St. Louis for many years before her husband’s job brought them back to this area. She holds undergraduate degrees in Fine Art, Business and Horticulture, and a Master’s degree in Plant Science from Washington University in St. Louis. Susan is thrilled to be back in the city where she grew up! She is enjoying rediscovering all the area has to offer and volunteering her time at the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College. She has two perfect children, both in college, the world’s best dog, and two spoiled cats. She and her husband, Mark, live in Villanova.

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Nyssa sylvatica, the very tree Van Morrison immortalized in Tupelo Honey. I recommend turning on your iPod or turntable to set the mood while we explore this romantic specie.

Because of Nyssa sylvatica extensive range, it has numerous common names. photo credit: D. Mattis

Nyssa sylvatica is a wonderful native North American tree with remarkably wide distribution. It can be found in mixed woodlands from Ontario, south to the border of Mexico, and as far west as Texas.

Of course, its extensive range means that it sports many common names. Be on the lookout for trees called tupelo (though tupelo can refer to any tree in the genus Nyssa), black tupelo, black gum, sour gum (though not particularly gummy), beetlebung (nothing to do with insects), and pepperidge. The origins of these colloquial names are fun to research and a good diversion on a cold winter day with a cup of tea at your elbow. If you know of others, put them in the comments section of the blog and tell us about them!

But I digress. Of course, you are wondering if Van knew what he was singing about. Well, yes he did. Nyssa sylvatica blooms in spring after the leaves have emerged, producing separate male and female flowers that are a siren call to bees. The flowers are not showy, being only small, greenish clusters borne in the axils of the leaves. The flowers are an abundant source of nectar for insects like bees.

Despite this lackluster floral display, it showcases lovely green oval drupes that develop in late summer. These chocolate-covered peanut sized drupes mature to a beautiful dark, dusky blue that is very ornamental and much loved by birds.

Nyssa sylvatica reaches 30 to 50' tall. photo credit: D. Mattis

One caveat: Black gums are primarily dioecious, meaning male and female flowers are borne on separate plants. However, if you are particularly interested in having heavy fruit set to admire and to attract birds, you’ll want a female tree with a male tree within flight distance of the average bee.

But here’s the best part: Nyssa sylvatica simply has unrivaled, reliable fall color. As one of the first trees to start trotting out its fall wardrobe, it sends a clear signal that fall will soon arrive. In September its glossy, leathery, ovate leaves begin to turn sparkling yellow, and then progress through apricot, orange, brilliant red, crimson, and eventually deep maroon.  I have seen breathtaking specimens exhibiting their full range of colors all at once; nothing can compare.

Now that you have decided you must have one (or several) of these lovely trees, let’s examine some of the nuts and bolts of growing them. In cultivation, black gums generally reach 30-50’ tall and 20-30’ wide, though a well-sited tree can grow much larger.

The branches of Nyssa sylvatica attach to the straight central trunk at right angles, and circle it all around in a very distinctive way. photo credit: R. Maurer

Pyramidal when young, the branches attach to the straight central trunk at right angles, and circle it all around in a very distinctive way. See for yourself:  when you find one (there are several  growing along Alice Paul Residence Hall) wrap your arms around the trunk, press your cheek to the bark and look up, you’ll see what I mean. Don’t let the stares of passersby dissuade you from this task; it is important that you understand.

For best results, when shopping choose a young, container-grown tree. It will reward you by becoming established more quickly than a large specimen, and with careful watering and good, fertile, acid soil (pH 5.5-6.5) it will soon be settled in and showing off in the fall.

Nyssa sylvatica 'Wildfire' in fall color. photo credit: Scott Arboretum Archives

There are several cultivars of Nyssa sylvatica in the trade, three of which can be found on campus. One of the nicest and most readily available is ‘Wildfire’, selected not only for its fall color, but the fact that its new growth in spring emerges red, and maintains a reddish tinge all throughout the summer.

The slightly, contorted zigzag branches of Nyssa sylvatica 'Zydeco Twist'. photo credit: R. Robert

Others are Red Rage™ (‘Haymanred’) which is resistant to a leaf spot fungus that can sometimes occur, and ‘Zydeco Twist’ which has slightly contorted, zigzag branches that look interesting in winter. But no matter your choice, if you plant a black gum where you can see it framed through your favorite window you will enjoy its fall display for many years to come.

Susan Mintun is a transplanted teacher and horticulturist who moved to Philadelphia in 2011. She served on the faculty and curated the plant collections of the Horticulture Department at Meramec College in St. Louis for many years before her husband’s job brought them back to this area. She holds undergraduate degrees in Fine Art, Business and Horticulture, and a Master’s degree in Plant Science from Washington University in St. Louis. Susan is thrilled to be back in the city where she grew up! She is enjoying rediscovering all the area has to offer and volunteering her time at the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College. She has two perfect children, both in college, the world’s best dog, and two spoiled cats. She and her husband, Mark, live in Villanova.

The post Nyssa sylvatica appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

It’s not finished with fall and spring is fast approaching! As you reflect on your fall garden, you should also be contemplating your spring garden as fall is the perfect time for planting spring-flowering bulbs. Bulbs possess an almost magical quality: the ability to shed the dreary gray days of winter and provide reassurance that spring is here. Tulips and daffodils are two of the best known and most popular spring bulbs.

Bulb catalogs have probably arrived in your mailbox. In Pennsylvania and throughout the northeastern United States, bulbs that flower in spring are typically planted in October or November. Bulbs should be planted as soon as possible but can be stored in a cool space for a couple weeks if necessary. Planting can occur until the ground begins to freeze.

Student workers plant the annual border in the Terry Shane Teaching Garden with bulbs. photo credit: R. Maurer

A common question many gardeners have is how many bulbs should be planted in an area. Standard hybrid tulips should be planted about 5 per square foot; small species tulips about 9 to 13 per square foot; and miniature daffodils about 7 to 11 per square foot. Both daffodils and tulips should be planted about 6 inches deep, or about 4 inches for smaller bulbs.

Daffodils enliven the early spring garden. photo credit: R. Robert

A Classic: Daffodil

Daffodils are perfect for areas that require rodent- or deer-resistant foliage. If daffodils are provided lots of sunshine and good drainage,and foliage is allowed to die back naturally, bulbs will perennialize, increasing in size each season.

Daffodils need at least 6 hours of direct sun every day for 8 weeks or more after they bloom. They like a neutral (7.0) pH sandy loam and low-nitrogen (preferably organic) fertilizer just before blooming. An overabundance of nitrogen results in lush foliage and few flowers. If you have clay soil, amend it with sand and/or aged neutral pH leaf compost a foot deeper than the bulb planting depth. Then enjoy the blooms!

Daffodils along Magill Walk receive direct sun because the white oaks have not leafed out yet. photo credit: R. Robert

Next deadhead the spent flowers. Wait 8 weeks or more after blooming (until the leaves turn yellow) before cutting the foliage. One trick to mask fading foliage is to plant daffodils mid-border. By doing so, other emerging plants mask the foliage while allowing the bulbs to rebuild their energy reserves.

Tulipa 'Taco' provided cheer in the Scott Entrance Garden this past spring. photo credit: J. Coceano

A Classic: Tulip

Tulips originated in Turkey and throughout the mountainous regions of central Asia. Divided into over a dozen different divisions, tulips fall into two general categories. Hybrid tulips are bred for strong stems and large flowers. Bulbs utilize vast amounts of energy to create a dramatic flower.

Tulipa 'West Point' dashed the winter blues in the Scott Entrance Garden. photo credit: J. Coceano

Species tulips, with smaller, more refined blooms, are an ideal option for those wanting a perennial tulip. Species tulips tend to be smaller in stature and are ideal for rock gardens, border edges, and small intimate gardens where their unique forms can be appreciated.

Bulb containers are a unique way to use bulbs in your spring garden. photo credit: R. Robert

A Twist on the Classics: Bulb Containers

Bulbs can also be grown in containers. Both daffodils and tulips do very well. It is best to use a container at least 24 inches in diameter to insulate the bulbs from very cold weather. Make sure the container has holes for good drainage.

There are various options for methods of planting:

•  Plant the bulbs in a single layer the same depth as you would in the ground.
• Or you can try a layering method similar to making lasagna. Place larger bulbs like tulips and daffodils on the bottom layer. Add a layer of soil. Smaller bulbs like crocus, winter aconite, and Muscari sit atop the larger bulbs. Cover with several inches of soil. The soil should be a good potting soil mix.

Store the container in a cool, dark area, either outdoors, a storage shed or your basement if it stays very cool. Since the bubs are growing roots at this point, check the pot often to make sure the soil does not dry out.

Daffodils make waves in the Harry Wood Garden each spring. photo credit: R. Robert

Once the weather begins to warm and you see green shoots, move the container to an area with light. At this point, you can enjoy the show or add cool weather flowers or plants, such as pansies or lettuce, in the pot with your blooming bulbs. Continue to make sure the bulbs have enough water. Keep containers moist but not soggy.

Find unique cultivars of theses classic bulbs and more at the Scott Associates Plant Sale on September 20-22, 2013.

The post Classic Bulbs: Daffodils and Tulips: What to Do appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Summer is almost over, but your garden is “not finished with fall.” Gardens in the Delaware Valley often look amazing in the fall, so celebrate by throwing a garden party with cooler weather and fall flowers.

Volunteers Karol Bock and Linda Heffernan prepare for the opening of the Plant Sale Special Friends Preview Party. photo credit: M. Groff

The Scott Arboretum is preparing to throw a large garden party at the Scott Associates Plant Sale on Friday, September 20. Because we have been celebrating the Plant Sale Special Friends Preview Party for over 15 years, we have several tips to help you have a successful garden party.

Most garden parties have a comfy, causal dress code. photo credit: Scott Arboretum Archives

15 Tips for a Successful Garden Party

Invitations

1. Make sure you let your guests know the theme, dress code, and special activities at the party so they can dress appropriately for an evening romping or relaxing in the garden.

Lights strung along the tent make love evening garden lighting. photo credit: M. Groff

Decorations

2.  Think of your garden as an outdoor room, with the grass as carpet. Garden foliage can serve as the most stunning decoration with any enhancements you may choose. Cut the lawn and trim the hedges the day before.
3. Decorate your trees with colorful paper lanterns, wind chimes, piñatas, or balloons. To add lighting for an evening event, use while lights, candle-lit jars, lanterns, or paper luminaries along walkways.
   

   Place your garden furniture in a shaded spot for all to enjoy. photo credit: Scott Arboretum Archives

4. Place furniture, including “borrowed” indoor furniture, where your garden can be best enjoyed; ideally not in direct sunlight.
5. Centerpieces can be theme-related or as simple as cut flowers in jars or floating in glass bowls,  small plants or votive candles in terracotta pots, or bowls of fresh fruit. Get creative by using other containers such as small metal pails or old watering cans.

Tents sheltered garden guests from an afternoon sprinkle. photo credit: R. Robert

Guest Comfort

6. Keep unwanted pests away by adding citronella tiki lights or citronella candles. Or, use a bug fogger before the event.
7. Have extra sunscreen and insect repellent available for guests to use.
   

   Recycling and trash cans are strategically placed by the food and beverages. photo credit: R. Robert

8. Have a plan to move the party indoors in case of rain or consider a tent.
9.  Don’t forget to place trash and recycle containers in easy-to-spot locations, but out of the way to not detract from the party decor.

Food and drink should be outside no more than two hours without being chilled. photo credit: R. Robert

Food & Drinks

10. Try to make as much as possible the day before so you aren’t rushed the day of the event. Cold and hot foods should not stay outside for more than an hour or two without being kept cool in an ice bath or hot over a burner, as appropriate. Avoid using mayonnaise or other foods that spoil quickly. Cover food with a mesh dome or a large upside down terracotta pot.
11. Use a unique container such as a wheelbarrow filled with ice and drinks to keep the garden theme going.

Music always makes great atmosphere for a party. photo credit: R. Robert

Garden Fun

12. Music always creates a great atmosphere. Come up with a music playlist several days before the party so all you have to do is press “play”.
13. Croquet, badminton, or even an herb-smelling contest are a few garden entertainment ideas for your guests.
    

    Allow plenty of areas for guests to sit and converse. photo credit: R. Robert

14. Allow areas for guests to play or just sit and converse as they wish.
15. If you would like your guests to leave with something to remember the party, you might give them a small terracotta pot of herbs, cut flowers, vegetables from your garden, or even a packet of vegetable or flower seeds.

An ideal seat for entertaining. photo credit: R.Robert

Hopefully, these provide some ideas for you to enhance your party and have fun. Do you have any fun party anecdotes or suggestions? Please feel free to respond to this blog with your ideas!

Come celebrate fall with us at the Plant Sale Special Friends Preview Party! photo credit: M. Groff

The Scott Arboretum will be having a garden party — the Plant Sale Special Friends Preview Party on September 20 from 4 to 8 pm. The party has a lovely backdrop of hundreds of plants for sale where party guests preview them and are allowed first pick of the plants. Both adult and kid-friendly food and beverages will be available while shopping. Come celebrate fall with us!

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It has happened to all of us at one time or another; do you recognize either (or both) of these scenarios? Scenario 1: Coffee in hand you wander out to your garden (yet again) and mosey around a bit. And, yet again, you determine that, yes, it needs something. It’s just not right. It’s not as attractive as it could be. Or the space doesn’t function as well as it might. Or it has a problem that seems impossible to solve. You are sure it has potential, but what to do? You sigh and head back inside for another doughnut because, yet again, you have not been struck with inspiration.

Exploring the amazing plant selection at the Scott Associates Plant Sale. photo credit: Scott Arboretum Archives

Scenario 2: Oh, you love plants! The colors! The textures! The satisfaction of growing something beautiful! The feel of dirt under your fingernails! You arrive at the plant sale with great anticipation and there, laid out before you, is a scintillating selection of the objects of your obsession. Oh, boy, it doesn’t get any better than this! But then as you shop questions start to form: I love the look of this plant, but I don’t really know much about it. How big will it get? How much sun does it need? Will it provide food for the birds or attract butterflies? Will it tolerate being trampled by the dog? Will it really look as good as it does in the photo?

Plant Expert Josh Coceano discusses the merits of our woody plant offerings at the Scott Associates Plant Sale. photo credit: D. Mattis

Thus you seek advice and consultation from fellow gardeners, professionals, and enthusiasts. Here are some pointers on how to get the most out of these conversations and interactions:

Getting the Most from Your Garden Consultation

1. Be able to explain your site’s conditions: the size of the area you need help with, the amount of sun it receives, what the soil moisture is generally like, if it is flat or sloped, etc. These features are not always visible, but dramatically affect your garden.
2. Identify your goals or concerns about how you would like the area to look and function. The garden must be functional as well as beautiful.
3. Consider addressing just a portion of your property or have in mind a particular project you want to discuss. Don’t get overwhelmed and lose sight of your initial goal.
4. If possible, show photos of landscapes and gardens you like and plants you want to add. The bigger the pictures, the more useful they will be. Simply presenting them in digital format works as well.

Savvy gardeners can take advantage of free garden consultations during the Scott Associates Plant Sale from landscape designers at the Design Studio and plant experts on the Plant Sale Field.

Landscape designers Jules Bruck and Harriet Henderson offering garden consultations during the Scott Associates Plant Sale. photo credit: J. Goren

Design Studio

On Saturday and Sunday experienced landscape professionals will be on hand to consult personally with you about the design of your garden. Their expertise is available just by signing up to meet with one of them in person! Each session is 30 minutes long and is free of charge. In order to get the most from your consultation you should come prepared with the items mentioned above and a site plan, even if it is just a rough sketch, indicating buildings, paved area and existing plants.

There are a limited number of sessions available! We strongly recommend that you reserve a time slot in advance by contacting the Scott Arboretum offices, 610-328-8025. For more information about the talented designers who will be available please see the Plant Sale handbook online.

Plant Expert Eve Thyrum shares a laugh with Jack Neigh. photo credit: D. Mattis

Plant Experts

These special volunteers and arboretum staff members have been recruited to answer all your questions as they arise. Each one is a knowledgeable and experienced gardener and all of them like nothing better than to talk about plants. You will find them roving about on all three days of the sale, eager to help you find the perfect plant for your garden, to help put together combinations of plants that will look and grow well together, or to educate you about the ones you have fallen in love with and can’t live without. These folks will be easy to find: they will be wearing red “Plant Expert” pinnies and friendly smiles.

Design Studio and Plant Experts both give you wonderful opportunities to get the advice you need. Be sure to take advantage of these great resources!

The post 4 Tips to Getting the Most Out of a Garden Consultation appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Hungry for a little more advice and visuals about the neat plants that will be for sale at this year’s Plant Sale?  Explore the world of fabulous fall plants.

Fothergilla 'Mt. Airy' in lovely fall color. photo credit: R. Manduca

Andrew Bunting, curator and chief architect behind many of the plant selections for the sale, recommends Fothergilla x intermedia ‘Mt. Airy’ as a great plant for the fall garden. This selection was chosen by Plantsman Michael Dirr for its consistent fall color of red, orange, and yellow. This upright shrub also has abundant flowers. Andrew will discuss all of his plant sale favorites at the Plant Sale Preview on Wednesday, August 14^th from 10 am until noon in the Wister Center.

Franklinia alatamaha has dependable fall color. photo credit: R. Maurer

As we roll into September, the camellia-like flowers of Franklinia alatamaha will grace the campus plantings. This is a great fall garden plant because of its dependable orange to red fall color with decorative winter bark.

Fall color drapes the many pathways of the Scott Arboretum grounds. photo credit: R. Robert

Examine the features of Franklin tree for yourself during the two Plant Sale Highlight Tours on Saturday, September 7 and Thursday, September 12. Nothing beats falling head over heels for the color or bloom of a little something spilling into the walkway! This is a wonderful chance to ramble across campus and see the early autumn/late summer personalities of many of these great plants.  The campus should be alive with late summer blooms and early hints of fall foliage.  It’s a great way to put together an informal shopping list in advance of the Plant Sale!

Oxydendron arboreum glowing fall color against the grey stone of Parrish Hall. photo credit: J. Coceano

Eyeball another fall performer, Oxydendrum arboreum, for yourself on an informal walk around campus. While marked by the signature blue tags indicating a plant is available at the Plant Sale, you will most likely be struck by the glowing fall foliage from afar. Igniting the corner of Parrish Hall with tones of yellow, red, purple, and maroon, sourwood is a slow grower with all-season interest. Iridescent green foliage in the spring matures to dark green. Drooping racemens of flowers appear in the summer.

A great resource for plant cultural information, the Plant Sale Handbook. photo credit: R. Robert

For more details about these and other fall wonders available at the Plant Sale, browse the online handbook  which is chock-full of cultivation tips and descriptions of the 250+ types of woody and perennial plant. You can also do some plant homework before the sale and take advantage of the free education events this August and September. See you in September…It’s Not Finished with Fall!

Our guest author, Cindy Kerr, is an avid container gardener and the chair of the 2013 Scott Associates Plant Sale.

The post Hot Plants for Fall Gardens appeared first on Scott Arboretum & Gardens.

Inspired by the motto fall is for planting, I have been pondering my woody plant wish list. The release of the 2013 Plant Sale Handbook has made my daydreaming so much richer, with so many details on culture, habit, and description right at my fingertips. I am intrigued!

The perky pink blooms of Camellia 'Winter's Charm'. photo credit: D. Mattis

I won’t rhapsodize about the seven hardy camellia cultivars on the list. The fact that they are glossy, evergreen, glorious in bloom, and previously perilous to plant in our region should be enough.

Bell-shaped blooms of Clematis 'Rooguchi'. photo credit: J. Coceano

Nor will I go on about the 16 clematis cultivars Jeff Jabco talked about in the summer Hybrid.  Smaller, easy to prune, and suitable for containers: a whole new avenue of delight.

The red-orange July through August blooms of Rhododendron prunifolium. photo credit: C. Sawyers

Instead I want to talk about Rhododendron prunifolium. I have a weakness for red-orange; or is it orange-red?  It’s native, blooms in July-August, and has a lovely, tiered branching habit.  Considered one of the rarest azaleas in the eastern United States, it is found naturally along stream banks and in ravines mostly in Georgia. It’s hardy here and you can see it in the Sibbett Garden near the Scott Outdoor Amphitheater (handbook p. 27).

Eleutherococcus sieboldianus 'Variegatus' is a dry shade woody with great color interest. photo credit: R. Maurer

I am not driven entirely by flights of fancy; I can be practical, too. My garden is deep in dry shade.  It’s not an uncommon “problem” around here.  So on page 51 of the handbook, under “Dry Shade — Woody”, is Eleutherococcus sieboldianus ‘Variegatus’. This mouthful of a plant is “tough” and “hardy”.  Just what I need! The height will add a little interest to an otherwise tired formula of ground covers under mature trees, and the variegation will light up those dark corners.

The white blooms and variegated leaves of Daphne x transatlantica 'Summer Ice'. photo credit: R. Maurer

Then while in the E section, I meandered into D, where I spotted Daphne x transatlantica ‘Summer Ice’.  I’ve read that guests can smell the divine scent from 20 feet away! I’ve seen ‘Carol Mackie’ in catalogs, but ‘Summer Ice’ is one of the longest-blooming, easiest to grow daphnes. Next to the front porch, I think.  You can see its lovely blooms in the Harry Wood Garden now. The beauty of the Scott Associates Plant Sale is all the knowledge behind the selection of plants offered. And it’s coming up soon: I only have to wait until September 20th.

Barbara Smit is a domestic roadie whose latest assignment has been to move and settle the Neil Smit Show in Philadelphia.  With an undergraduate degree in Zoology and graduate school in international economics, naturally she had a brief career as a technical writer and editor in aerospace and computers.  Then came the semi-perfect two boys (safely out of the home) and a succession of interesting dogs and world travel.  She is an avid and somewhat dangerous amateur gardener who loves the beneficial climate of the region and the horticultural latitude they afford.  Barbara and Neil live in Gladwyne with their latest dog personality, Ulli.

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